I first heard about the Korean Civil War when I took Korean Contemporary Movie and Culture. Yes, I do know that the Korean peninsular is separated by I didn't really knew why. Thus, I signed up for an exotic tour to 판문점 (Panmunjeom). I only chose the JSA (Joint Security Area) tour as other tours looks scary as I've learnt from the movie; 태극기 (Taegukgi), the tunnel (which is included in the DMZ tour) was where Koreans died (bombed) during the war, so it's technically a graveyard there. Actually every inch of Korea is a graveyard as lots of people died during the 3 year civil war.
So the tour begins at 11.30 a.m. on a rainy Saturday morning. It was about an hour and fifteen minutes journey from Seoul. On the way there I saw lots of army posts and wires... and also got a glimpse of North Korea.
*The mountainous area is North Korea*
This is the end point of South Korea; upon entrance to the secure part. This park is the closest that Koreans and foreigners can visit and glimpse into North Korea. This place is like a museum park; you can find a rail road which still operates til today however only 5 times per day.
*This is the rail road gate. It was destroyed during the
Korean War;
which lasted for 3 years (1950-1953) *
*This is how it looks like*
*The Bridge of Freedom; where South Koreans cross-over from
North after the war.*
*Mangbaedan; is where North Koreans who stayed in the
South pay their respects to their ancestral
in the North during Chuseok and New Year's
Day. This place face towards the North.*
*As you walk further in, you will see these ribbons
with words written on it; according to the tour guide it's the people's
thoughts about the war and also
reunification*
*The Bridge of Freedom*
*At the end of the bridge you can also see lots
of ribbons, name tags and short notes*
*Reunification Bridge*
Stop 2: Reunification Bridge
 |
This is my pass upon entry; must be wore at
all times throughout the whole
trip |
Sorry, no pictures will be provided for this section as we were told from this checkpoint on, no pictures will be allowed and if caught; which they always do, camera will be confiscated and pictures will be deleted. Here, marks the beginning of MDL (Military Demarcation Line); heavy security begins here. Passports are checked by the Military Officer; not just anyone can enter, I think only those with valid and approved reasons will be given entry.
The Reunification Bridge is built by Hyundai owner (the guy who started this car company) as he was from North and he thus he donated money to build this bridge as the first step to reunification of the both Koreas.
As we go further in, we were constantly being reminded not to take any pictures and also no pointing or whatsoever due to safety reasons.
Stop 3: JSA Camp Bonipas
When we arrived at the JSA Camp Bonipas (named after the Military Officer who is in-charged of the area; I think he got killed while on duty); which is the 2nd checkpoint. An American military soldier came up the bus and checked our passports thoroughly. He then again reminded us not to point at anywhere or take any pictures as they will go through your camera and delete those pictures.
Then we left for briefing in the centre; the briefing was about 15 minutes before we can proceed. Here we are given a form/ agreement to sign, so that we abide to the rules and if anything happen ... I guess you guys can fill it.
Stop 4: DMZ (Korean Demilitarised Zone)
After the briefing we took a different bus to DMZ; driven by military soldiers. Throughout the way into DMZ the American soldier who followed us explained the area to us. In the DMZ there are 2 villages; one in the North called Gijong Village, and one in the South called TaeSung Village (and they faces directly opposite one another). In both of the villages, both government placed their flag; I saw North's flag @.@! Sorry need to be crazy since not many people will get to see North Korea's flag flying right in front of their eyes; unless they go there or like me sign up for this tour >,<
This piece of info I find quite interesting; the measurement of the South's flag pole is 328 foot whilst North's is 525 foot. Our tour guide told us before year 2000, both the North and South have big speakers facing one another. Everyday each side would play something; South played K-Pop while North... I forgot. So once one side stopped playing immediately the other side would start. See the competition between two the Koreas. "Whatever we have or built, they have twice more than us" (Mr.Kim- tour guide, 2012); guess this is pretty true...
So in the DMZ, it actually pretty dangerous to wonder around. As there are land mines planted around and also farmers who have farms there are not allow to go to the farm alone. They must be accompanied by at least 2 soldier for safety reasons. Case 1 (told by the soldier): A women and her son was at the field for work and was abducted by North's soldier and within 48 hours they both was released. This reason being that the women was too noisy; she was screaming and shouting the whole time... He didn't make that up; well, at least that's what he claimed.
We were also informed about the history of the road; as it is the one which North and South soldiers used during war (so lots of soldiers died here). It's actually quite sad to listen; both are from the same nationality, are Koreans, just because of different philosophy that both are still against each other til now.
Stop 5: Freedom House- Conference Room
* See a prominant plate between the two houses?
That is the divider between the North and South. If you look carefully
in the picture, you can see a North Korean soldier standing
in front of the door (1st one from the left); he is actually using binocular to look/checkup
on us. We were told that one his left there is another soldier but he is sitting inside the building, I can see the window curtain is slightly opened. So technically there are 2 soldiers standing guard; there will always be one soldier standing guard outside; be it morning or night, rain or sunny or winter.
But on the South side; only during the day.*
While standing there, we were told not to step further onto the staircase and we are standing two by two in a line; like the movies when ppl are gonna get shot by the soldier, we are standing exactly like that. Also we are not allowed to point at all here as it is highly dangerous to do so; North Korean soldiers might think that we are hold a gun or mocking them if we do that; and they might fire at us. So when you sign up for this tour, pls pls pls, follow the orders given by the tour guide and the officer if you wanna live. There is no 2nd chance in life and also think about the ppl who are on the same tour as you. So pls, do follow the orders given strictly.
After that we went into the conference room; the blue houses. There is where most meetings between the North and South Koreans together with the appointed UN officers takes place. Even in the room, there is a border! Pictures are allowed in this room, so we were told to take all we can and don't stop due to limited time. Upon entry there were two South Korean soldiers in there, one is standing in the side-middle of the conference room and the other at the rear end of the door. As our group is very large... and the room is small so we occupied the whole room... Hence, on this very day; 30/06 (late afternoon), I stepped on North Korea's ground and I have pictures of it! When we were told that we are actually in North Korea, all of us was surprised and of course without any hesitation we took as much proof of that fact as need! Everyone was excited! The officers told us that he is not able to stamp our passport as no one is authorised to do so, thus the only proof that we can get is pictures!
Stop 6: Axe Murder Incident
*This is a sentry to remember the officers who died; incident whereby
the tree was too big and it blocked the view of South Koreans soldiers and UN/American soldiers'
view of the North's post so the soldiers brought in people
to trim the tree and then a fight broke out. I think its the
Axe Murder Incident*
Stop 7: Bridge of No Return
*Prisoners of war was exchanged on this very bridge. People who chose to
go to the North from the South will not be able
to return to the South ever again, hence the name, The Bridge of No Return.*
Hence, this is the end of the tour... All in all it's a fruitful trip, this area is not as scary as it was described. Yes, you can definitely feel the tension there but I still felt excitement as this is a one in a lifetime experience. It's one of the trip that I can proudly tell people about! If you are interested, visit this tour agency...
http://www.tourdmz.com It's worth it!
